In the Sandzak, it takes longer for the fish to start stinking.

This is the second year in a row that I have missed Easter. That's okay, though. The crucifixion and empty tomb don't hold a lot of meaning for me. Last year, I was in Serbia for western Easter and Croatia for Orthodox Easter. This year, both Easters were on the same day, but I went to hang out with some Muslims. I spent the Easter holiday in Tutin and Novi Pazar, in the Sandzak region (an area in south Serbia that is majority Muslim).

I spent my time with a colleague and her family, seeing how she passes the time, meeting her friends, attending family gatherings, checking out the local night life. It was lovely. The level of hospitality was amazing. I wasn’t allowed to pay for anything and was given gifts (a pair of shoes—her family owns a shoe factory, kajmak, coffee, lotion) to take back with me.

What amazed me most about the hospitality was that it seemed so pure. What could they have expected in return? I’m not much of a conversationalist in Serbian, I don’t have many connections. I did manage to help my colleague’s son with part of his DaVinci Code videogame. Just sitting on a bus for 6 hours and being willing to listen and being there was enough.

And these mostly strangers who took me in were disappointed that I left after six days. Such a different cultural norm.

There are plans to see them again shortly, probably for the May Day holidays.